Petzl has made an effort to educate users, but the bad habits of devotees are difficult to break, and with the release of the Grigri 2 in Video by Petzl – The hand position we showed for belaying with the Grigri 2 in our March issue. Victim. GRIGRI EXPERIENCE. • Read the instructions for use carefully before looking at the following techniques. • You must have already read and understood.
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Neanderthal 9b by Jakob Schubert 1 Find the best winter climbing destinations 4 some problems using the website Graham takes the relay from Natalija Gros Who to believe Login in to contribute. The Matik is better than the Grigri up to 9. The Grigri has been the leading belay device for over 20 years and 8a. Luckily, these have more or less stopped but still very few belayers are actually following the new Grigri manual. Now, Camp has introduced Matik on the market.
This device seems to have solved some of the weak points of the Grigri and, all in all, 8a thinks the Matik is better than the Grigri with ropes up to 9. The cam does not lock immediately. Instead, Matik makes the rope slide up for some 10 cm, meaning the hardest falls will be more dynamic.
An anti-panic system blocks the rope if the cam is open too widely, meaning less incidents for beginners. It is just one big hole for the screw carabiner, meaning fewer safety issues compared to the Grigri.
It does not get nearly as hot as the Grigri 2 once you climb many routes in a row in a gym, which actually can leave marks on the rope. Much more intuitive to hold the rope in the hand once you feed out. From a minimalistic point of view, it takes less effort to take in slack and to feed out rope, once doing it properly. Here is more info and here an instructive video.
Using 10 mm gym ropes, it did not work as good as using thinner ropes outside. It seems the Anti-Panic system releases quite easily with thicker ropes and lighter climbers. Once your partner stands on the ground it takes some time until you learn how to easily feed out that extra slack.
Overall, the Matik feels better than a Grigri on ropes up to 9. On the other hand, if safety is 1 priority, Matik you should try it out. It should be underlined that some of the problems with the Grigri took several years to be found and there might be some safety issues also with the Matik. Two tiny flaws that you have to learn to overcome is that a thicker index finger can come in contact with the rope once feeding out, leaving a mark of friction. Further more, the gap where the rope gets in and out is very narrow meaning that they can get in contact.
We will continue our testing and come back with a more detailed report. Anyhow, when it comes to maximal safety I would say that Matik is safer compared to the Smart but The Matik is almost three times as expensive. The first time I used Mammut Smart my partner almost fell to the ground from the fifth or sixth bolt. After that experience I switched back to Reverso. Someone once told me that the safest belaying device is the one you are most familiar with.
Petzl Grigri 2
Mega Jul, i feel super save with this one! Will buying the jul 2 soon for testing.
grigrri I watched the video – does the slide function burn your hand? Because the matik allows for 10cm of rope to pass through the belay device before catching, isn’t that 10cm of rope running through your closed belay hand?
If you belay with a “8” you do not burn your hand as you stop the rope with your hand.
First Look: Petzl ‘Anti-Panic’ GRIGRI+ Belay Device | GearJunkie
With the Matik, the belay stops the rope but with very hard falls, it takes some 10 cm. However, you could block the fall, as with an “8” manually but what normally happends is that your hand gfigri a bit upwards. I still don’t think I understand.
What if your brake janual is less than 10cm from the device? Will your hand be pulled into the device? And does it slip under other conditions or just under heavy falls? What if you want to keep someone from hitting a ledge? Or what if you need to jug up to help your climber get back to the last bolt she clipped after a fall?
Would the cam slip in those cases? It slips only during the hardest falls but if you brake with the hand hand, i guess there will be no slip.
If you use the 8 amnual your belay device, with no auto braking, the slip manuap only if you hand gets closer to the device. The matik is an auto braking device that can make the Rope slip like 10 cm if you let go with the hand.
It does not matter which device you are using. This is always an fatal error! There are no “auto breaking device” – only semi! Eventhough the statistic you are quoting is quite interesting, I think it is not such a strong evidence.
The authors said it semselfs in the discussion part: At least if I remember the article correctly My personal experience with the Matik I used it for one session lately is very positive. After just a few climbs it felt pretty natural to use it.
I think it could possibly become “the new GriGri”, as, at least I think so, it will be a bit easier to handle for beginners in this belaying device category.
During my session in the gym I could not experience the “slip-mechanism” as described in the article. I dunno if we didn’t hit the rope hard enough or our hold onto the breaking rope was to tight for it to work. I will pay attention to this detail the next time The Smart is basically a tuber, so I guess using a Reverso doesn’t make much difference concerning the handling.
I don’t understand how it’s possible to unintentlionally let your climbingpartner fall while using a partly-automatic belay device that in function and design is a standard tuber, your belay device of choice? Did it happen while lowering? Of course you should never let go if the braking hand. I have never Said that but it us a fact that many do it which is not good. As I Said from the beginning, there are rope slip only for the hardest fall and in practice I actually think that it will never happen to me as i am so programmed giving soft belay.
Even if I tried to get some slippage I could not make it happen with a 10 mm rope no matter how static I tried to belay.
I love how you bombastically conclude that “the Matik is better than the Grigri” in the heading, and then, in the bottom of the text, you end up saying that more testing is necessary to be sure.
It seems you did not read or understood the end. There is no doubt that Matik is better than the Grigri up to 9.
Topic: The Matik is better than the Grigri up to mm – Forums
Edelrid Eddy does all of this for half the price. Edelrid eddy is more expensive than the grigri! My partner had a problem with a clip. He was pulling the rope, then letting it go, then again pulling it and so on. I was trying to give him slack as fast as I could when he pulled the rope again and the breaking mechanism jammed. While using Smart you have to operate both the rope and the lever with your breking hand.
When I tried to unjam it I unintentionally let go of the rope while using the lever which happened exactly as he fell. In the end it did work, but had the ground been a little closer he would have fallen. It would be a broken fall but still a fall. Whole story wouldn’t happen had I used tuber or reverso because I’m used to unjamming it which by the way happens rather rarely and there is no damn lever I guess you are talking about a GriGri incident and if so please edit your comment so it is not misunderstood for the Matik where I do nlt think that thing could happen.